Day Gecko Care

General

Day geckos are one of the most visually spectacular lizards that can be kept successfully in captivity. They lend themselves perfectly to well planted, landscaped vivaria and can be a feature of any room - in much the same way as a tropical fish aquarium
The majority of Phelsuma species hail from Madagascar & the Indian Ocean islands,and are highly protected . Of the day geckos which have been successfully bred in captivity, only a few are generally available in the UK. These are normally well-established captive-bred animals.- the most popular being Giant Day Gecko (P.m.grandis), Standings' Day Gecko (P.m.standingi) and Gold Dust Day Geckos (P.laticauda). These three species are also recommended for first-time Phelsuma keepers.
Most of the colourful smaller species are very delicate & require a higher level of experience to keep successfully. Although many years of experience with other reptiles can give good grounding, Phelsumas really need to be considered a completely new discipline.Remember, this guide is to be considered as a general guide - further species-specific research is considered mandatory.
It should also be mentioned that Day Gecko bred in captivity are mostly by hobbyists who have taken the time to study these geckos at length, almost to the neglect of all other herps. Such dedication pays off in the end and the number of captive-bred species available have increased in mainland Europe and North America. Britain is unfortunately some way behind.

Housing

All glass vertically oriented vivaria are the preferred housing for these geckos. Size of viv is dependant upon species. We would personally recommend 45cm high x 30cm wide x 30cm deep for the small species and 75cm high x 45cm wide x 45cm deep for the larger as a suitable minimum.. Our personal preference is for mesh-topped glass vivaria - reason being ability to expose the inhabitants to full lighting benefits while allowing easy daily spraying. Security is also a factor, as Phelsumas will escape through surprisingly small gaps if given the opportunity.
Vivaria should be well-planted with several horizontal & vertical perches. Substrate should consist of a layer of pebbles, gravel or other drainage medium topped with peat-free moss or cocofibre soil substitute. A top layer of moss provides a more natural look and helps keep up the humidity levels.
Suitable plants are sansoveras, bromeliads & other tropical plants. Perches can consist of vertical corkbark, bamboo, non-toxic branches or better still one of the flexible imitation branches currently available. Bamboo is also an ideal medium for providing perches, retreats and even egg-laying sites. Hiding places should also be provided for security. We find Calabash pods or similar are ideal for this purpose..Another good alternative is a ceramic bird feeder. Wood or any other Ibo-degradable material will not cope with the humidity required by most species

Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

The majority of day gecko species require daytime temperatures in the range 27 - 31C with a night time drop of 5 degrees and a relative humidity of between 50 - 80%. Background temperature can be achieved by securing a heatmat to the rear of the tank, controlled by a suitable thermostat. This should be adequate for maintaining minimum night time temperatures. Daytime temperatures can best be achieved with monitored use of incandescent, or better still, halogen basking bulbs controlled by a dimming thermostat.
We've personally found high quality UV lighting is essential for the well-being of this species. You should aim for 5% minimum UVB and a high level of UVA . Quality and quantity of light helps achieve optimum behavior characteristics, resulting in brighter colours and increased breeding success.Lighting should be cycled to mirror natural day lengths, with 8 hours in mid-winter rising gradually to 16 hours in high summer. There are a variety of good-quality electronic timers which are ideal for maintaining these schedules.
Spraying the vivarium twice daily will help to achieve & maintain humidity levels, although this may need to be increased during the summer months. Humidity levels are one of the more difficult conditions to maintain, but needn't be too taxing. Live plants significantly reduce the burden, and visual monitoring can reveal further clues. The substrate should never be allowedto become saturated, just a little damp on the surface* . If your plants begin to wilt, then water is the usual remedy

Feeding

A high-quality varied diet of properly gut-loaded insects and fruit is essential for day gecko health. Suitable insects include crickets as a staple,, locusts,& waxworms for variety.and mealworms as occasional treats.These should be dusted with a high-quality vitamin powder every other feed.
Fruit & nectar feature heavily in a day geckos natural diet, A fruit mixture can easily be made by mixing peaches, nectarines, apricots & other soft fruits with a good quality fruit baby food - supplemented with bee pollen, calcium & a high quality vitamin/mineral powder.
Recently it has become possible to obtain a commercial dry formula Day Gecko food which technically has all the nutrients required, although through our experience it is preferable to mix this with fresh or pureed fruits whilst still offering a varied insect diet.
Feeding time is an ideal opportunity to get to know your charges. If a routine is established, then it's possible to experience your geckos taking food from your fingers. Regarding when & how much, we have nectar available to them always in a small dish, and supplement this with an insect diet twice a week.
Then of course there are the occasional treats , although you should never overdo these, as an over-weight gecko is just as unhealthy as underweight.

Behaviour & Handling

Day geckos are, as the name suggests, mainly active during daylight hours & dusk, which makes them ideal to observe in a captive environment. Emerging at lights on, they will head towards the warmest perch & bask until they reach optimum temperature.
The most part of their day is taken up with perching & the occasional forage A selection of sub-terranian invertebrates are ideal substrate inhabitants, helping to maintain the soil health; & providing a tasty snack should the opportunity arise.

Handling Day Geckos is to be avoided unless absolutely necessary. Their scales are so fragile it can take only a slight rub to lift the skin clear away, resulting in an hideous looking wound. Although this will heal (if not too severe) careful monitoring will need to take place under sterilized conditions. The wound must remain clean at all times. The wound will result in a scar which, although healed as far as the gecko is concerned, will never match the original colouring and will be a constant reminder to avoid skin loss in the future. There will be occasions when handling is unavoidable - during major viv cleaning or replanting etc. Day geckos are fast & can escape all too easily if given the chance. The ability to climb up walls will make recapture a major undertaking. So be prepared. Invest in a small fishing net - the kind you would transfer fish from aquariums with. Coax the gecko into the net and carefully place your hand around the back & head of the gecko and grip gently. Transfer into a small holding viv whilst cleaning & renovation takes place.

Breeding & Hatchling Care

Successful breeding is dependent upon a number of important factors. Only when habitat, heating, lighting, humidity,day length, feeding, health & general well being of the gecko has been achieved with some level of success should your mind be set on breeding.
Most (very few exceptions) day geckos should only be kept singularly or as sexed pairs. Both males & females are highly territorial towards each other & injuries will occur betwween same sexes..

Day geckos usually produce a clutch of 2 eggs every month or so during the breeding season. Eggs should be carefully removed (unless plasterers) and placed in an incubator at a temperature of 28C. The usual substrate for incubation is vermiculite, and if you already have success with this medium then stick with it. However We have found cocofibre to be a far better incubation medium. It has remarkable water retaining properties and ensure humidity is kept to 80%. It is also more organic in our opinion. Incubation times can vary between 45 - 90 days depending on species.
Breeding females need a constant supply of calcium for healthy egg development. Calcium deposits are stored just behind the cheeks and are a good indication of optimum breeding condition. A simple way to provide extra calcium is to place a small pot of calcium carbonate in their viv. This is in addition to any supplements fed by gut-load or dusting. The female will help herself when she needs to.Hatchlings are small, fast and extremely delicate.

We prefer to allow the hatchling to remain in its' hatching box until the first shed has taken place. We then transfer the hatchling into a small pen-pal type enclosure with the same conditions as the adults. A substrate of cocofibre topped with moss will help ensure humidity , and a small piece of cork bark placed securely against the side will offer a stress-free perch.. The only other adornments necessary are a small plant,and a small bowl for fruit mixture.
This small enclosure should be placed on a shelf or surface with a UV tube suspended over it .Spray lightly twice a day (more during summer) and feed with 1st instar crickets, fruitflies & fruit mixture. Increase the size of pen-pal as growth dictates until it reaches 6 months old, by which time it should be possible to sex and ready to be moved into a full size enclosure..